Unspoiled, for choice (Part 2)
Diver (UK, 1998)

The Burmese authorities are keen for cautious development of their tourist industry, and are struggling to achieve even that in the face of widespread international condemnation of their disregard of human rights. It was only after long and careful negotiations that licenses were finally granted to one or two boats to explore the southern islands last spring. The quality of diving was immediately apparent, and further negotiations secured permission for some boats to explore to the northern limits of the archipelago in October. Most of these islands are uninhabited, and until early this century were known only for their remoteness, selection of wild animals and potential for attack by pirates.

The independence of Burma in 1948 brought with it isolationist policies and even the closure of strategic areas, and this has preserved these islands and reefs until now. The only people you are likely to encounter are the Moken, or sea gypsies, who have communities in the southern islands, and the occasional Burmese longtail fishing boat. These travel hair-rising distances offshore for such fragile craft.

There are two options for traveling to the islands, both surprisingly easy, but one is definitely more adventurous. Most of the live aboards operating here sail from Phuket in Thailand, and offer the southern Mergui Islands as an extension to a cruise to the Surin and Similan Islands. Only one operator currently bases these vessels in Burmese waters exclusively, and this means entering Burma aboard longtail fishing boats across the border on the Patchak River between Kawthaung and Ranong in Thailand. From here you either join your boat directly to sail north, or fly north to the port of Mergui to sail south back to Kawthaung. (…) The fact that the port of Mergui was closed even to most Burmese people until last year gives you some idea of the fascination that visiting westerners provide!

The sunrise over the first island anchorage reveals soaring hills capped by dense rainforest, fringed by white sandy beaches innocent of tourist footprints.

These islands are still wild in the truest sense, inhabited by elephants, black bears, rhinos, monkeys, sea eagles, brahminy kites and hornbills, any number of snake and insects and even leopards and tigers. A walk on the beach early in the morning reveals hermit and land crabs scuttling in all directions, "cat" paw prints larger than your hand, and a chance to meet some very large wild boar.

Visiting this area can be quite an adventure and one of the operators offers a mixture of island exploration and diving in addition to its dedicated diving cruises. If you choose this option, don’t forget your jungle boots and insect repellent! The topside islands’ charms extend into these nutrient-rich waters, which offer a dazzling diversity of flora and fauna from mantis shrimps to mantas and whale sharks. The topography and coral formations are similar to those found further south in Thailand, but you have that distinct impression that yours are among the first human eyes to view these reefs.